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By
D\ Riham Nassar
Specialist Clinical Pharmacist

The skin is considered the largest organ of the body and has
many different functions
...

The skin protects from microbes and the elements, helps
regulate body temperature, and permits the sensations of
touch, heat, and cold
...

 The dermis, beneath the epidermis, contains tough
connective tissue, hair follicles, and sweat glands
...


• The skin’s color is created by special cells called melanocytes,
which produce the pigment melanin
...

The effect of cosmetics on skin:
• The major function of skin, thanks to its stratum corneum
location, is to prevent desiccation and protect against
environmental hazards such as bacteria, chemicals and UV
radiation
...


•

Being the largest organ of the body, the skin is exposed
both acutely and chronically to a wide variety of
xenobiotics, either unintentionally through environmental
pollutants or intentionally through drugs and cosmetics
...

• However, the role of this conversion in the absorption process
is yet unknown, and understanding these mechanisms is
important to understanding their impact on topical delivery
...

• Cosmetics, also known as make-up, are substances or
products used to enhance or alter the appearance or
fragrance of the body
...

• They are generally mixtures of chemical compounds; some
being derived from natural sources (such as coconut oil), and
some being synthetics
...
), perfume and
cologne
...
If
skin is rough and also not washed it for quite some time, do not
apply makeup straightaway
...

1- Cleansing of Skin
You can use a number formulas, from ordinary to special one,
to wash your skin before the makeup
...
It also depends
on tone of your skin, and if you have oily skin use a formula
that will dry it
...

2- Exfoliate Your Skin
This is another option for you to ready your skin for the
makeup
...
It
depends on your routine or the purpose you are going to apply
makeup for
...
This also depends on the weather or
season
...
However, foundations premiers are very
expensive to buy and difficult to apply
...
Nevertheless they are very effective for skin and
can complement your makeup
...
They just like foundations are effective, especially
if you are going to apply makeup using high-end products
...


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Cosmetic course

Types of skin:
• Normal skin type
• Oily skin type
• Dry skin type
• Combination skin type
• Sensitive skin type

 What’s the difference? Your type depends on things such as:
• How much water is in your skin, which affects its comfort
and elasticity
• How oily it is, which affects its softness
• How sensitive it is

Normal Skin Type
• Not too dry and not too oily, normal skin has:
• No or few imperfections
• No severe sensitivity
• Barely visible pores
• A radiant complexion

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Cosmetic course

Combination Skin Type
• Skin can be dry or normal in some areas and oily in others,
such as the T-zone (nose, forehead, and chin)
...
It may need slightly different care in
different areas
...

If it’s very dry, it can become rough and scaly, especially on
the backs of your hands, arms, and legs
...

• Use mild, gentle soaps or cleansers
...

• Don't scrub while bathing or drying
...
Ointments
and creams may work better than lotions for dry skin but
are often messier
...

• Use a humidifier, and don't let indoor temperatures get too
hot
...


Oily Skin Type
• Enlarged pores
• Dull or shiny, thick complexion
• Blackheads, pimples, or other blemishes
Oiliness can change depending upon the time of year or the
weather
...

• Use a gentle cleanser and don't scrub
...
They'll take longer to
heal
...
This means it won’t clog pores
...

1
...

2
...

3
...

4
...

5
...

6
...


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Cosmetic course

• Cream
• Lotion
• BB cream
• Cleanser
• Face toner
• Base cream
• Foundation
• Eye shadows
• Eye liners
• Mascara
• Eye contour
• Lip gloss
• Rouge
• Lip liner

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Cosmetic course

# Face cream:
 Composition:
 Humectants
Creams with glycerin-based elements and urea are called
humectants
...

 Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Alpha hydroxy acid removes the outer layer of dead skin
cells, acting as an exfoliant, while accompanying
moisturizers -- usually humectants -- replenish the skin's
moisture
...

Common hydroxy acids include salicylic and glycolic acids
...
Emollients are
lipid-based creams, and replace empty spaces between skin
cells with nourishing lipids while softening and smoothing
rough skin
...

 Retinoids
Retinol is chemically engineered Vitamin A
...
Retinol causes
skin cells to be generated and die quicker than normal,
increasing the turnover of cells and the body's ability to
create healthier, smoother skin
...
As humans
grow older, the concentration of CoQ10 in the body becomes
diminished, leading to lower collagen and elastin production
-- two elements essential for younger and healthier looking
skin
...

 Hyaluronic Acid
Like emollients, this class of creams fills in the gaps between
skin cells
...
Hyaluronic acid restores
the fullness of the skin and eliminates wrinkles when applied
directly to the area
...

 Perfume, color and preservatives are dispersed in the water
cycle
...


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Cosmetic course

A typical oil-in-water manufacturing process:

Step 1: Add flake/powder ingredients to the oil being used to
prepare the oil phase
...

Step 3: Prepare the water phase containing emulsifiers and
stabilizers
...
(Note: This is
aided by heating to between 45-85 C depending on the
formulation and viscosity desired
...
Lotions are ideal for warmer seasons while creams are better
used during cooler seasons
...
Lotions are generally less greasy than most creams
...
Lotions are said to be lighter and thinner in consistency
unlike the heavier and thicker body creams
...
Lotions are also effective on areas with moderate hair and
for users suffering from conditions that cause moderate to
severe skin dryness
...
1 — 2%
Preservatives 0
...
1%
Antioxidants 0 — 0
...
s
...
s
...
They are typically oil soluble and
make skin look and feel smoother
...
Those that are volatile or are
absorbed rapidly into the skin, and so provide only a
transient effect, are termed very light, dry emollients
...
Light
emollients are typically slightly more viscous and have a
light oily to cushiony feel on skin
...

Heavy emollients are viscous liquids or semi-solids that
penetrate the skin slowly and that are often occlusive (trap
moisture within the skin)
...
Waxy emollients may be included
as feel modifiers (see below)
...

Humectants are substance that have an affinity for water
and so increase the water-holding capacity of skin
...

The gold standard for humectancy is Glycerin
...

Emulsion ingredients
Emulsifiers are surfactants that, when appropriately
selected, align at the interface of two immiscible liquids
(e
...
, oil and water)
...

As is common for emulsions in general, hand and body
lotions typically use a combination of both oil-loving (low
hydrophilic-lipophilic balance = HLB) and water-loving
(high HLB) emulsifiers to achieve optimal stability
...
Probably the most commonly
utilized low HLB emulsifier is Glyceryl Stearate
...
At
near neutral pH these Stearate salts also contribute liquid
crystalline structure to the emulsion, markedly enhancing its
stability
...
As mentioned earlier, Stearate soaps
function in this capacity, in addition to being high HLB
emulsifiers
...
The gold standard in this area
is Carbomer, with modified polyacrylates and
polyacrylamides also commonly utilized
...
Among those commonly used
globally is Phenoxyethanol with various parabens or
Caprylyl Glycol
...


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Cosmetic course

Other components that are often present include feel
modifiers
...

For example, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate may be
added to reduce oiliness, while Cetearyl Alcohol may be
added to impart a richer, thicker, waxier feel, as well as to
increase opacity
...
It has a low required
use level, is essentially odorless and colorless, and can also
improve the spreadability and reduce the whitening of the
lotion during rub-in
...
As a weak base (in
comparison to Potassium Hydroxide), its addition late in the
batching process is less likely to induce localized emulsion
inhomogeneity
...
These
ions may promote both the oxidation of unsaturated
ingredients and the growth of microorganisms
...

Antioxidants such as Tocopherol or BHT may be added as an
alternative, or as a supplement, to the stabilizing effects of
chelants
...

Fragrance (perfum) is frequently added, if for no other
reason than to mask the base odor of the product
...
When
hypoallergenic and/or “no fragrance” claims are made for
the product, carefully selected essential oils, botanical
extracts and/or individual synthetic chemicals may be added
to control product odor without needing to use the word
“fragrance” on the label
...


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Cosmetic course

BB cream:
 Composition:
o Phase A
– Water 38
...
12
– Sodium hydroxide 0
...
00
o Phase C
– Glycerin 5
...
30
o Phase D
– Solaveil XT 40W LQ (Croda) (Titanium Dioxide (and) aqua
(and) polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (and) sucrose stearate (and)
simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil (and) stearic acid
(and) alumina (and) glyceryl caprylate (and)
squalene)16
...
00
o Phase F
– Olive oil 4
...
00
– Jeechem CTG (Jeen Products) (Caprylic/capric triglyceride)
8
...
25
– Lanette 22 (BASF) (Behenyl alcohol) 3
...
50
– FloraGLO Lutein 5% Topical in safflower oil (Kemin)
(Carthamus tinctorius (safflower) seed oil (and) tagetes
erecta flower extract) 0
...
07Iron Oxides CI77499 0
...
21Titanium Dioxide USP CI77891 3
...
00
o Phase I
– Euxyl PE 9010 (Schulke) (Phenoxyethanol (and)
ethylhexylglycerin)

 Procedure :
 Weigh phase A and adjust to be homogenized
...
Add
phase C to main phase and mix well for 30 minutes
...
Add phase E to
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Cosmetic course

main phase and allow to be mixed
...

 Weigh phase G and pulverize color before blending in to
Phase F and keep mixing to avoid settling
...
Add phase H to main
phase after both phases have been mixed
...
Switch to slow sweep mixing
until 45C
...

 Properties:
Appearance—Smooth, uniform cream; Color—Light to
medium tan; pH—7
...
5; Emulsion Stability — Stable for 5
freeze-thaw cycles, Stable for 3 months at 40°C & 50ºC
...
6oz
 Distilled Water (diluent)83
...
8g / 3
...
0%2
...
07oz
 Coco Betaine (surfactant)4
...
0g / 0
...
0%4
...
14oz
 Cocoamidopropylamine Oxide (surfactant)2
...
0g /
0
...
5%0
...
02oz
 Goldenseal Extract (plant extract)2
...
0g / 0
...
5%0
...
02oz
 Baobab Protein (protein)0
...
5g / 0
...
5%0
...
02oz
Phase B
Mangosteen (fragrance) 0
...
2g / 4 drops
Phase C
Citrus Combo (antibacterial blend)1
...
0g / 0
...
Add phase B to phase
A, stir gently
...

Package into Foma bottles for easy foam dispensing
...

 Properties:
Face cleanser with mild cleansing agents, ideal for the
sensitive skin
...


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Cosmetic course

Face toner:
Skin toner or simply toner refers to a lotion or wash designed to
cleanse the skin and shrink the appearance of pores, usually used
on the face
...
(This is the most frequently used
method
...

• By applying a tonic gauze facial mask—a piece of gauze is
covered with toner and left on the face for a few minutes
...


Types of toners
o Skin bracers or fresheners
These are the mildest form of toners; they contain water and
a humectant such as glycerine, and little if any alcohol (0–
10%)
...
A
popular example of this is rosewater
...
It may give a burning sensation to sensitive skin
...

Orange flower water is an example of a skin tonic
...

o Astringents
These are the strongest form of toner and contain a high
proportion of alcohol (20–60%), antiseptic ingredients,
water, and a humectant ingredient
...
Removal of
oil from the skin does not cause overproduction of oil, as
there is no structure in the skin that provides negative
feedback to the oil glands that the skin has become dry and
needs to compensate for the lack of moisture
...


The purpose of toners is to replenish and nourish
skin after removing makeup and cleansing, a step
that can significantly, and visibly, help your skin
...


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Cosmetic course

Foundation:
 Composition:
Phase A Weight % For 120 g / 4
...
8 g / 0
...
8 g / 0
...
com 3 % 3
...
13 oz
• Titanium Dioxide 3 % 3
...
13 oz
• Bismuth Oxychloride 3 % 3
...
13 oz
Phase B
• Sheabutter 2
...
11 oz
• Sorbitan Stearate 1
...
1 g / 0
...
5 % 3 g / 0
...
8 % 2
...
1 oz
Phase C
• Hot Distilled Water 64
...
4 g / 2
...
4 g / 0
...
2 g / 1/4 tsp
• Fragrance 0
...
4 g / 1/16 tsp
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Cosmetic course

 Method
Add phase A into a mortar and disperse the ingredients with a
pistil until it is a homogenous mixture
...

Combine phase A and B and stir
...
After the temperature has dropped to
about 90oF/32oC add phase D and stir again
...
Before adding one of these
ingredients disperse them in ½ tsp
...
Fill the
foundation cream into airless dispenser or tuba bottle
...
Cosmetics
chemist Jane Hollenberg says cosmetic-grade talc or mica is
a primary filler ingredient
...

• Binders are used to ensure the powder adheres to your skin
...
In addition to pigment, some manufacturers
add silica, nylon, dimethicone, boron nitride (a ceramic
material), or bismuth oxychloride for “slip” so the powder
will slide more easily over the lid
...


Eye liner:
 Composition:
• Traditional wax-based eye liners are made from about 20
components
...
g
...
Typical pigments include black iron oxides, as well as
smaller amounts of titanium dioxide and Prussian blue
• Eye liner is made of oley alcohol magnesium, aluminum,
mica, and titanium dioxide
...
The treatment to make the pigment
hydrophobic is preferably accomplished by treating the
pigment or pigments with lecithin
...

• Use according to one of the claims 1 to 3, wherein the extract
is combined with one or more additional active ingredients
chosen among lightening, anti-redness, anti-stain, calming,
for the treatment of sensitive or reactive skin, UV sunscreens,
moisturizing, humectant, exfoliating, smoothing, toning,
anti-aging, anti-wrinkles, improving the mechanical and
elastic properties, the radiance, detoxifying, anti-hair
regrowth, acting on the skin barrier, anti-acne, acting on
the secretion of sebum, matting, unifying, antiinflammatory, anti-oxidants, anti- radical, anti-glycant,
eye contour (under eye bags and dark circles), promoting
blood circulation, peptides, vitamins active ingredients
...

Other ingredients in lip gloss are mineral oils, petrolatum,
titanium dioxide, and many other chemicals that are hard
to spell
...


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Cosmetic course

Lip liner:
• A powder-based lip liner cosmetic composition comprises:
(1) a talc component;
(2) a mica component;
(3) a low luster pigment;
(4) a substantially hydrophobic polymer;
(5) an at least partially hydrophilic polymer; and
(6) an emulsifier component
...
Preferably, the
mica component includes mica coated with an aluminum
salt of a long-chain fatty acid
...
Preferably, the cosmetic composition further
comprises a skin-tone-dependent pigment, as well as
ancillary components
• The lip liner cosmetic composition of the present invention
provides a long lasting lip line resistant to contact with
surfaces and eliminates the problem of "bleeding" or
"feathering" of lipstick into the lip liner
...

The lip liner of the present invention is preferably applied by
the use of a water-wetted brush, unlike any other lip liners
previously available
...
webmd
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cosmeticsandtoiletries
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html
https://en
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org/wiki/Cosmetics#Products
http://www
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com/how-to-prepare-skin-before-makeup-48795/
http://www
...
com/beauty/whats-your-skin-type#2
http://www
...
com/Know-Skin-Types
http://www
...
com/article/138507-the-best-ingredients-face-moisturizer/
http://illumin
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edu/174/the-chemistry-behind-moisturizers/
https://en
...
org/wiki/Lotion
http://www
...
com/c/body-care/body-lotion?categoryId=4191845
http://www
...
net/science/health/difference-between-cream-and-lotion/
http://chemistscorner
...
wikipedia
...
makingcosmetics
...
pdf
http://www
...
com/Foundation-Formulas_ep_96
...
makingcosmetics
...
html
http://www
...
com/beauty/features/decoding-eye-shadow
https://prezi
...
google
...
chemistryislife
...
google
...
google

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