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LIPSTICKS
Lipsticks are molded sticks of a dispersion of coloring matter in a base
consisting of blends of oils, fats and waxes
...

Emollient lipsticks provide an oily protective film to prevent chapping
and drying
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An attractive appearance , good coverage and coloring properties
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A smooth surface of uniform color free from defects such as
pinholes , grittiness due to color or crystal aggregates
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Have pleasant taste
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Stable during shelf life and usage life and it should not exude oil,
develop a bloom, flakes cake, harden, soften, crumble or become
brittle
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Pharmacologically inert when applied topically and when ingested
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Easy to apply, giving a film on the lips that is not too greasy nor
too dry
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Not prone to rancidity
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It should withstand hot climates
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Should not fade easily
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Attractive
in appearance, pleasant in tastewith a good feel on lips and shall be free
from sweating, bloom and rancidity
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2
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4
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Bloom
Grittiness
Oozing/ sweating
Pinholes
Rancidity

Raw Materials /Formulation of Lipsticks:
1
...
Staining the skin which requires a dye solution ,
Xanthenes –acidic(e
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Fluorobromosceins)are oil soluble
dyes and used in Lipsticks
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g Rhodamine is water soluble )hence not
used in lipsticks
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Coverage imparted by colored layer that serves to hide
surface roughness and give smooth appearance
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Proportion of colors is:
1
...
2%
2
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TiO2

0-4%

4
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g Eosin, tetrabromofluorescein
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It can give rise to sensitization or
photosensitization leading to cheilitis (inflammation of red portion of
lips)
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To prevent the bromoacids dye from converting to a highly colored salt
form in the lipstick mass, 0
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Bromoacid solvents: For low quantity of bromoacids liquid fatty
alcohols, dipropylene glycol or castor oil can be used
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It is also used to modify shade of basic
pigment due to its brightness and covering power and hence
preferred over ZnO
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Iron oxide for russet and brown shades
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 Pigment is a white or colored chemical compound which is
insoluble in a particular solvent
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Lakes are an insoluble pigment prepared by precipitation of water
soluble dye with a metal ion onto a substrate
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 Filler pigments modify texture and improve wear
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 A term BLEED is associated with color
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0001% are considered insoluble
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Shake the pigment in the solvent in a test tube and filter the solvent
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2
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P, viscosity and other properties of stick are obtained by
using a mixture of different waxes and fats e
...
hard paraffin, soft
paraffin, white beeswax, candelila wax, ozokerite wax, ceresin wax,
cetyl alcohol, carnauba wax
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Oil mixture when blended with wax provides a film to the lips
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Yet antioxidants
required
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Also its advantages are high viscosity at elevated temperature,
oiliness contributes to gloss and emolliency, makes a good vehicle
for pigments suspension
...
Also gives good structure to lipstick, good
stability and resistance to breakage
...

 Liquid fatty alcohols are good co-solvents for waxes isocetyl,
isostearyl preferred to oleayl alcohol
...
Castor oil can be replaced by oleayl alcohol partly or
fully using bromoacids solvents like hexadecyl alcohol, butyl
stearate
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Liquid paraffin gives gloss
...
e
quick setting and releasing
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g
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 Cocoa Butter-may cause bloom of waxy material on the stick
...
Lanolin and lanolin
derivatives blend solid and liquid fatty materials –plasticize,
improve covering and thickness and stability of film
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They are non-drying
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 Butyl stearate wets bromoacids and pigment quickly and gets
the color in suspension
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Polyols are hydrophilic, have affinity for moist surface
of lips and the dissolved dye is transferred causing stain
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 Glycol and glycol derivatives containing lipsticks should be
tested for their effect on plastic
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 PE- improves high temperature stability
 Modified Silicones-provide slip, light feel and detackifying
properties
...
Additives:
 Wetting agents-to improve pigment wetting and dispersion, i
...
g lecithin, butyl stearate
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2
...

4
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6
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2%

EVALUATION OF LIPSTICKS:
In process evaluation tests include :

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Color match with standard
Particle size of dispersed pigments
Melting point
Softening point
Breaking point –The stick is held in a socket horizontally and
weight is applied with increments of 10g until the lipstick breaks
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Check perfume
For lip salves etc -Vegetable oils may get rancid
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HCl and
10ml phloroglucinol solution
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Definitions:
1) Transparent Lipstick: Contains soluble or solubilized dyes
...
Polyamide resins are used
Mol
...
wt 600
to 800
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Gum benzoin in
IPA used as a film former
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3) Lip Rouge: EC/Cellulose nitrate/Cellulose acetate used as film
former
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Methyl abeitate used
as plasticizer
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5) Other lipsticks: Silicone like Diphenyl Dimethicone 40% along
with waxes 20% mineral oil, pigments and TiO2 are used
...
Blend
pigment, TiO2 with silicone and add to the melt, homogenize and
pour into silicone treated moulds
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Fatty materials like PET jelly and Lanolin give more adhesive
preparation
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Do not contain color
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For softer preparation IPM 10% incorporated
...
Used alone or to cover lipsticksticks, semi-solids or liquids
...
May contain
pearl pigments to produce transparent shine and gloss
...

9) Lip Balm, Moisturisers etc : Protect lips rather than decorate
...
7%), allantoin and octyl dimethyl-PABA
and sunscreening agent also used
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Jojoba oil- soothing and emollient
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1
...

2
...
Moulding into sticks
4
...
and IIColour blend and Mixing: Colours are blended separately
using high speed mixers (e
...
This gives homogenous dispersion of
colorants
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If solvent used
for bromoacids, this solution is prepared and set aside
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Preservative and anti-oxidants dissolved in remaining oil and
added
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Remaining base materials i
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At 75°C to 80°C, add color grind
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Transfer to jacketed closed vessel and vacuum (Vacuum
processing) applied to occlude air
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Perfume, heat sensitive items are added and mixed well
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 The nature of the oil used for wetting and dispersing the
pigment and the mechanical work done on the mixture will
determine the fineness of the pigment suspension ultimately
obtained
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 Thinner oils are hence useful for wetting the pigments, but
addition of a thicker oil before grinding is advisable to
prevent settling
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III Moulding ; Mass is removed from the storage container and
gently remelted using steam, electricity or gas and agitated slowly
for 20-30 minutes to allow entrapped air to rise to the top and
prevent pinholes
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Molten mass is run into moulds for casting
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Moulds made of brass,
stainless steel, tinned Cu or aluminium –
1) vertical split type (split down the centre) or automatic ejection
type
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For Split type, cooling
table is required
...
of single cavity units mounted on turntable
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Over heating is avoided and also
rapid stirring is avoided to prevent entrapment of air
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IV Flaming- in which the lipstick is passed rapidly through a small
gas flame to melt the surface layer to remove any surface spots and
produce bright, smooth and glossy surface
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Finally the sticks are packed in containers and examined for
visual defects
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It should be packed in a secure case so as to not
color other things
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Lipstick is likely to be ingested hence contamination should be
taken care of
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Earlier cases were made of brass which was expensive
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Components of lipstick case are :
1
...
The godet is
injection moulded, usually from polystyrene
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2
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The base runs the
whole length of the case
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3
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The barrel,
which may be metal, is a tight fit around the sleeve and hides
the twist-up mechanism from view
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4
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It is the most decorative component of
the case; it may be printed or embossed and usually discreetly
carries the brand name and the decoration which conveys the
brand image of the product
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Label: A self-adhesive label, which may be printed to
represent the shade of the lipstick, and which names the
shade, is affixed to the base, usually in a slight recess

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