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Title: Textiles and Fashion
Description: Intended for 1st years taking a textiles course or studying textiles in the fashion industry. Notes include construction, composition of fabrics and fibres. Different finishes of the fabrics.
Description: Intended for 1st years taking a textiles course or studying textiles in the fashion industry. Notes include construction, composition of fabrics and fibres. Different finishes of the fabrics.
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Lecture 1 - Introduction to Textiles and Fashion
What is sustainability?
Making something last over generations
...
• Fibres : Raw materials from yarns/ threads fabrics are made
...
• Fabric : Is the planner sheet or yarns woven, knitted, knotted, or bonded together
...
Difference between Yarns and Threads :
Yarns are elements used to make cloth
...
Cloth = Fabric ( Same thing)
Fibre Types (Raw materials of textiles)
• Cellulose( Plant)
NATURE!
• Protein( Animal)
• Regenerated cellulose
• Synthetic
NB!!! Name of fibres or name of
textile isn't the same
Man-Made
Fabric Time Lines
Fibre Preparation( e
...
Flax) →Yarn production/ Web formation→ Yarn manipulation( Fabric differ)→
Textile( e
...
Linen)
e
...
) Flax = Raw material of Linen
e
...
) Silk = Fibre = Composition→ Satin = Textile
→ Chiffon = Textile
→ Habotai = Textile
Three Constructions :
• Woven/ Weave
• Knitted/ Knit
• Nonwoven
Woven :
Fibre Preparation →Yarn production→ Yarn manipulation→ Textile
Non-Woven :
Fibre Preparation →Web formation→ Textile
NB!!! The Difference of
knitted and Woven is the
Yarn Formation
Knitted :
Fibre Preparation →Yarn production→ Yarn manipulation→ Textiles
Describing Fabric :
• Weight
• Handle/ Fabric behaviour e
...
Soft/ draping
• Construction ( Type of weave/ knit/ non-woven)
• Design ( Printed/ Woven)
• Colour
• Fibre/ Raw material ( Cotton/ Linen/ blend/ polyester
Fibre properties :
• Cool in Summer/ Warm in Winter ( Seasonal)
Textiles and Fashion Page 1
Fibre
Fabric
•
•
•
•
•
Cool in Summer/ Warm in Winter ( Seasonal)
Comfortable to wear (How the fabric feels on your skin)
Easy care
Suitable purpose ( Daytime/ Evening/ Runway / Retail stores)
Reflect your image
Textiles and Fashion Page 2
Lecture 2 - Drape : choosing fabrics for fashion design / Textile
characteristics
04 March 2015
07:00 PM
Choosing fabrics for fashion design :
Characteristics considered before textiles used in fashion design( page 156)
[Bottom Paragraph]
Nick Coutts - "cut your cloth according to your means"
Suitable Choices :
• Must suit body, function, season, and aesthetic
• Know how to construct garment from certain fabrics
• Match silhouette and detailing of fabric choice
• Must match affordability of target market and must be readily available
( Stocklists/ Manufacturers)
• Quantity ( Enough stock)
• PAGE 160 LEARN THE QUESTIONS
Fabric fibre content and
drape
Drape
• Characteristics of
• Importance of fabric drape when choosing the appropriate fabric
fibre play a part in
• Drape is the ability of a fabric to fall/ flow over/ covers body
drape ability of a
• Freestyle sense of design - Understanding of fabric
fabric
Fabric finishes and drape ( stiffened fabric)
• Starch
• Printing
• Embossing
• Mercerising = makes fabric softer and shiny
• Drape is flat or voluminous shapes
Tailored :
• Stiff - Fabric usually stiff moulded in a way
• Fitted / Stretchier - Fabric has fit
Fabric Construction and drape
• Loose weave
• Tight / dense weave [ Stiff]
• Knit
• Skins [ Stiff]
• Web formed ( like felt) [ Ultra
Stiff)
Fabric Weights = The weight of a 1 metre square piece of
fabric is measured giving weight in g/m2 :
• TOP Weight (0 - 149 g/m2 ) : Light fabrics such as silk,
organza, or habotai
• MEDIUM Weight (150 - 300 g/m2 ) : Medium =
Calico
• BOTTOM Weight (300+ g/m2 ) : Heavy = Wool
tweed, polyester satins and denim
Fabric Differentiation
Characteristics used to Classify fabric :
• Fibre content - type of raw materials used
• How fabrics have been constructed
• Weight of the fabric
• Yarns used and density of yarns in fabric construction
• Finishes applied to fabric ( aesthetic or otherwise)
• Properties - Drape, Handle, Structure and Feel
Textiles and Fashion Page 3
Fabric Weight and Drape
• Fine / Light fabrics have
lighter and looser drapes
• Medium / Heavy fabrics have
voluminous and fluid drapes
( Not a hard and fast rule =
Takes Time!)
NB!!! DRAPING OF
FABRIC!!!
Lecture 3 - NATURAL = characteristics of Cotton and Linen and Silk
04 March 2015
07:03 PM
Natural Compositions (Plant Fibres) [Page
...
g
...
Sowing - 100 days is the life and it's difficult to grow
○ 2
...
Retting = Consistency ( Narrow thermal range)
○ 4
...
Combing = Strand pulled into machine then poured into barrel , flax not smooth
○ 6
...
Weaving =
like wood
Woven = Linen
European Flax = BEST!
Not successfully mass produced
50's , 60's , 70's popular
○ 8
...
Couture designer = Men's clothes
○ 10
...
g
...
It has soft, 'fluffy' characteristics and grows around
the seed of the cotton plant
...
• Cotton's enduring popularity is its extreme versatility; it can be woven or knitted into a variety of
weights
...
The longer the fibre is, the stronger and better quality the fabric is,
for example Egyptian cotton
...
Making it cooler
and more comfortable with a silk-like appearance
...
o Israel and USA highest cost cotton producers worldwide
o Australia, China, Brazil, and Pakistan are lowest cost producers
...
Natural Fibres
Difference of Animal fibres and Plant fibres:
Animal:
Plant:
Made from Protein(Keratin) Made of Carbohydrate(Cellulose)
Not as durable
Durable
Animal Fibre Classification
o Fleece – e
...
) Sheep’s wool
o Hair – e
...
) Camel [and Everything else]
o Skins/Hides/Fur – e
...
) Snakes
o Filament – e
...
) Silk
o Feathers
(Skin/Cowhide/Leather/Mink – pg
...
o Uses and Care in Wool:
Shrink resistant knitwear
Rain coats
Bespoke tailoring – made-to-measure suits and garments
Autumn/ Winter garments
Accessories – Gloves, Scarves and Hats
Dry Cleaning
Avoid excessive heat and agitation at all stages
Avoid chlorine bleaches
Avoid prolonged exposure to sunshine
o Wool Terms:
100% Wool: Purely wool( could be recycled or reprocessed)
100% Virgin/Pure new: Wool isn’t processed
Mungo: Fibrous woollen material generated to waste fabric
Wool blends: Mixture of different wools and/or other fibres
o Merino wool markets:
Australia is the largest producers of wool followed by New Zealand who is also the
world’s largest producer of Crossbred wool
South Africa ( Cape Wools South Africa and National Wool Growers Association)
and Argentina are key exporters of wool followed by Turkey and Iran
...
Silk Fibre ( Queen of all fibre) [ Silk cross section is a triangle shape]
Silk fibre characteristics:
Textiles and Fashion Page 8
o Silk fibre characteristics:
Continues filament fibre thus relatively strong
Triangular cross-section results in light reflective quality therefore lustrous
More resilient than cotton, less resilient than wool
Abrasion – resistant and absorbent
Dimensional stability therefore will not shrink or stretch
Non-elastic therefore creases easily
Damaged by bleach and sunlight( Photosensitive)
Easily stained by perspiration (requires hand-laundering)
Excellent dye-affinity( can be dyed in deep/bright shades)
Resistant to mould and fungi
Soft and smooth handle
o Uses and Care of Silk Fabric:
Excellent draping and movement
Treated fabrics with salts produce fabrics with firmer drape and more body
Dresses and suiting
Ceremonial dress
Evening wear
Lingerie
Shouldn’t be worn when perspiring ( damages fibre)
Strong bleaches deteriorate silk
Iron under low to medium heats
Weakens with too much exposure to air, grease, dust, dirt and light ( should be
worn in the evening and stored in a dark environment)
Concentrated mineral acidic silk
o Silk Markets:
China, Japan, India, Thailand, Italy, Spain and France produce the highest quality
silks
...
○ Regenerated - Regenerated from natural fibres
General difference between natural and man0made fibres (Not major differences):
Advantages :
Disadvantages
Imitate natural fibres ( To look similar and to be
cheaper)
Hydrophobic ( Scared of H20)
Strong wet and dry
Oleophilic ( Obsession to oil)
Durable
Static build-up
Resilient
Bad conductors
Travel well
Discolouration
Easy care
Pilling
Dries quickly (Because its hydrophobic)
Shrinks in the heat
Doesn't shrink
Thermoplasticity :
Non-Thermoplastic (Natural fibres) Scorch and burn
Synthetic also burns but doesn't scorch
Thermoplastic (Synthetic fibres) softern and melt
Nature inspires science : How do silk worms make silk?
Man-made fibre extrusion :
• How fibre-forming solution or melt is extruded in fibre manufacture :
• Wet spinning acid bath = solidifies
• Silk then stretch
• Cool air blown on it to cool it down and to solidify it
Viscose/Nylon/Lyocell
Viscose and Rayon - regenerated (From wood)
Viscose/Nylon/Lyocell manufacture :
1) Tree
2) Log
3) Shredded wood chips
4) Cooked with caustic soda solution and formed into sheets of cellulose
Randomly fluted across section of cellulose fibre = in bulkiness, good absorbency and light
reflection qualities
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Viscose fibre characteristics :
Filament fibres converted into staple spun yarns to mimic cotton characteristics
Low tensile strength and resilience thus fabric develops pinhole
Breathable due to cellulose origin (Cool-feeling fabric)
Non-thermoplastic (will catch on fire instead of melting)
Good dyeability
Absorbent (Cause of cellulose) and lustrous
Excellent drape (often due to yarn fineness)
Textiles and Fashion Page 10
•
•
•
•
Excellent drape (often due to yarn fineness)
Resistant to pilling and chemicals
Damaged by sun and mildew
Non-elastic thus creases easily
Polyester :
• Patagonia is a company that wants to create the cradle-to-cradle for polyester through textile
exchange
• Pet fibre characteristics :
□ Chemical, man-made fibre from raw oil
□ Fibres can be made into spun or filament yarns for different clothing
applications
□ Thermoplastic fibre ( state altered when exposed to heat, will melt at a high
temperature
□ Can be texturized to mimic natural fibre properties of bulk, elasticity and
absorbency
□ Naturally non-absorbent, but application-specific engineered PET can be
□ Inexpensive to produce
□ Crease, mildew and sunlight resistant
□ High tensile strength (pro= durable, resilient textile; con= surface pills)
□ Easily blended with natural fibres for improved quality (comfort and handle)
□ Good dyeability; colourfastness depends on fibre shape and blends
□ Doesn't biodegradable but PET is recyclable
• New , High function polyester cross section :
Fluted and hollow cross section provides increased surface area for
various improvements :
◊ Surface absorbency ( moisture and dyestuff)
◊ Light reflection
◊ Moisture-wicking (Though hollow capillary and along grooved
length; colour won't "rub off" surface
Textiles and Fashion Page 11
Lecture 8 - Yarn Types
24 March 2015
10:07 AM
What is a Yarn?
• Definitions = Bundles of fibres or filaments which have been spun into
continuous length
...
• Additions = Fancy yarns are further varied due to additions such as
metallic tapes, loops and loose fibres into the spun length
...
• 2-ply is two yarns twisted together to make one stronger yarn
...
78 in Textbook
• Fabric can be constructed from : Yarns, Fibres, Solutions
• Or, a combination of the above: Multi-components, composites
• Or, a combination of the above: Mu
Fabrics made from fibres :
○ Non-wovens : felting and Bonding pg 96
Fabrics Made from solutions
○ PVC films( supported or unsupported)
○ Polyurethane foams
Multi-component Fabrics
○ Quilting
○ Laminating (fabric-to-fabric or fabric-to-foam)
Composite Fabrics (Non-Separable)
○ Chintz is a example
○ Tufted
○ Coated
○ Flocked
Textiles and Fashion Page 13
Crochet and Macrome
pg 94,95
Lecture 10 - Plain Weave Constructions (Module 2)
21 April 2015
10:01 AM
PG
...
Plain weave in swatch file - Voile, calico, linen, Shantung/ dupian, Chiffon, Loid,
Georgette, chintz, organza, Canvas
Yarn Dyed Plain Weaves
• Gingham
○ most plain of yarn dyed variations
• Ikat Weaves ○ Tie dyed warp and then a plain weft and it makes a design, yarn dyed not printed
○ Quite Expensive
○ If Reverse side of cloth is whitish and not same as front it’s a print not a yarn dyed
○ Colour is intense
• How Weaving Works
Textiles and Fashion Page 14
Lecture 11 - Plain Weave Variations
05 May 2015
09:57 AM
Focus on the textures made by the wefts
Sporty prep - Calvin Klein , Polo , Pringle , Ralph Lauren e
...
Poplin , usually cotton popular for TShirting
Ottoman can make a coat
Pettersham Ribbon can be used for trimmings
• Rib weaves
○ Fabrics that have horizontal ridges across the surface of the fabric
○ Caused by raised surface areas due to thick weft
• Basket Weaves
○ Weave construction like basket, thicker weft but balanced out by double amount of
warps but also could be double warps and double wefts
○ These fabrics have 2 or more warp ends interlacing with the same number of weft
...
Denim is a twill construction which is also has yarned dyed and bleached
yarn composition
Textiles and Fashion Page 15
Lecture 12 - Twill Weaves
12 May 2015
09:56 AM
Textbook pg
...
S - left
Twill Fabrics :
• Carded Natural Yarns : Denim Twill & Linen Twill - Denim
isnt jeans , but jeans made of denim
Denim (Stretch Denim)
• Denim process - Cotton needs to be blended first , then its
Right on the one block plain denim and
carded , then made into a sliver, then it is spun, cotton then
above the other one stretch
...
elastin yarn as the white
• Raw denim is becoming a trend , difference between the
distressed one is that you buy them faded out but raw
denim u break them in and make them faded, so its unique
to the wearer
• Canvas usually twill
• And twill expensive
NB!!! Make sure you know How to identify them for the exam on description
no
Fine Worsted Flannel (woollens)
Linked to classical vintage style
Mild Flannel , wool fibre shown makes it look woolly
• Flannel
RH(Z) Twill Weave
Mottled appearance, can be yarn-dye check or
pinstripe
Often milled to produce a fluffy surface, slightly
concealing the twill wales
...
Prince Edward (Very Similar) - Traditionally brown & cream
...
Designed put in PC and shows design and each design is then threaded into loom
2
...
Expensive and Risky
4
...
Warp yarns are controlled by punch cards or a pc
6
...
This produces a structural design in the face of the fabric
8
...
The fabric appears to be quilted or stuffed, but is actually a single layer
...
This creates a quilted/puckered/blistered effect on the surface of the fabric
...
Double faced fabric, more drape than matelasse
Pile Weaves • Woven with additional warps or wefts that float on the surface
...
g
...
Thick because
it’s a pile weave , It is bulky yet drapy , compared to single jersey or velour( A knitted fabric which
is easily mistaken for velvet, very stretchy) its not as drapy
• Vlevet is less drapy than velour, velour drapes even at fitted areas
...
• Velveteen - Cotton weft , they cut through the weft and that creates the fluffiness
• Corduroy - The cut weft creates the piles, Piles create a linear row ,
Dobby
• Mini Jacquard looms create small geometric structural designs:
Basic dobby - Yarn-dyed pattern (Shirts)
Pique - Texture (waffle or bird's eye)
Embroidered
Possible questions in exam
Fabric differentiation chart
Elements
Velour
Satin
Taffeta
Single Jersey
Weight
Medium
Medium
Top
Medium
Drape
Heavy
Floppy
Stiff
Heavy
Surface
Soft , Fluffy ,
Lustrous
Smooth,
Lustrous
Crisp( Crushed) ,
Lustrous
Soft, Smooth,
dull
Constructio Pile Knit (Weft)
n
Satin Weave
Rib Weave
Knit
Stretch (Fit) Medium - High
None
None
Medium - High
Fibre
Textiles and Fashion Page 19
Fibre
Content
Velour is better comfort wise than Taffeta as it is soft and fluffy rather than stiff and crushed
Textiles and Fashion Page 20
Lecture 17 (Part 1) - Exam Feedback
14 July 2015
10:01 AM
Interlock
• Construction - Double weft knit
• Composition • Weight - Medium 196gm squared
• Gauge - 20
• Yarn type - Spun Carded
• Properties - More stretch than single jersey
...
Firm & smooth with smooth but low
recovery
Textiles and Fashion Page 21
Knit Constructions PG
...
Results in face of smooth
columns and reverse of rows
• Dropped stitch - A stitch is dropped to create a hole for effect
• Tuck stitch - A stitch held & stitched into next row
...
• Texture Cable - Alternating knit & purl stitches form raised plaits and braids on the fabric surface
• Texture Aran - Chunky yarns used to knit ultra thick , 3D & lofty garments
A style of Gaelic knitwear originating from the Aran islands off West Coast of Ireland
...
Easy creation, easy destruction (Pull one yarn to unravel)
Loops (Stitches) linked to each other in weft direction
• Warp Knit (Tricot , Openwork knits (Raschel Knit), Knitted tulle, Plush knits (pile surface), Brushed
nylon, knitted towelling)
Process of knitting from a simultaneous feeding of many yarns through needles
Loops (stitches) linked in warp direction
• With Single Jersey knit the face side u can see the wales, and the back are visible purl stitches
• With Rib knit , wales in front and back
• Velour is a knit construction , pile knit ( also fake fur)
• Fleece Knit , Wale on front , brushed at the back, soft on both side = double faced
• Interlock knit , has wales on the front and back , weft knit, double knit construction = heavier +
heat retention
Textiles and Fashion Page 23
• Tricot , used for foundation garments, underwear, warp knit = zig zag effect therefore maintains ,
back has horizontal stitch
• Fully Fashioned knitwear - Garment parts are knitted in their pattern shapes or are fully-knitted
garments & attached together to make the garment ( Engineering involved is more complex but
no material wastage)
• Cut and Sew knitwear - Knit fabric is cut using a paper pattern; treating the knit
• Hand knitting • Melange Knit - Fibres of various colours & qualities blended into single yarns and knitted into a
single jersey knit
Traditionally shades of grey and referred
• Engineered stripe , both colours knitted at the same time, Using 2 different coloured yarns in the
weft direction, resulting in stripes of colour throughout
• Jacquard Knit - Jersey knit with multi-coloured pattern formed on face
Reverse has no floats of yarn as a result of looping float yarns into the back of the knit structure
The colour and knit is the same on both sides
• Intarsia knit, the reverse side will have a puzzle piece effect, will have large scale design
Single jersey knit with large areas of solid colour or single large-scale
Most popular style of this is the Argyle knit face - variations of intarsia knitting with diagonal
colour stripes that form the typical Pringle diamond design
• Missoni-Style knit - Multi-coloured pattern created by increasing & decreasing stripe in zig-zag
pattern
...
Random: No specific arrangement - through a combination of carding & air-laid techniques
2
...
This results in high strength & absorption in the direction of fibres
Method of non-woven maufacturing:
• Fibre Prep
○ Bale opening ; fibre binding; fibre cleaning; fibre mixing & stroage; feeding into machine
• Staple fibre
○ Staple length , a property of staple fibres , is a term referring to the average length if a group of fibres of any
comoposition
...
○ Natural fibre (such as cotton or wool) have a range of lengths in each sample, so the staple length is an
average
...
Felt has no strength drape or elasticity but is warm and does not
fray
...
Suede Cloth
• Real suede is the under side of cow hide which has been napped on the flesh side to create a soft
finish
...
Lace may be hand or machine made, and intricate patterns can be produced by either
technique
...
The edges of the fabric may be
straight or curved
...
• Piece dyed not yarn dyed
• Toile : It represents the predominant parts of the pattern made by braiding, knotting, looping
or twisting the yarn
• Bride or Reseau - It is the fine yarn that forms the mesh which provides the sheer ground
(background) between the prominent parts of the pattern
...
Lace floaral &
hexagonal net ground woven at same time
...
Quite strong due
to synthetic fibre
...
Cut holes
into fabric and secure them with buttonhole stitch , add more embroidery in patterns like
leaves , also called eyelet
• Net = Nylon
• Tulle = silk , made by knotting or knitting the fabric together , very durable , stiff , mosquito
nets, foundation garments, TuTus
Textiles and Fashion Page 27
Lecture 22 - Mechanical Finishing
11 August 2015
10:22 AM
Finishing
• Any processes or treatments applied to a loomstate fabric to improve aesthetic & performance qualities
...
64 - 67 ; 89 - 109)
• These incl
...
• Any finish applied which will improve the fabric's performance for a specific function or application
○ For example, if a fabric , winter apparel , then the chosen fabric should have good insulating properties
...
These fibres trap air - air is poor conductor of heat - which creates a thermal barrier
between the wearer and the garment
...
Embossing creates
a "melted "section which appears shiny due to composition
...
The effect is permanent due to synthetic fibres being re-set into new form with the application
of heat
...
High Lazer Flux , cut through fabric for aesthetic effect , low lazer flux to brush or create an effect on
the fabric ( Velvet , Velour)
Surface Embellishment
• Bead work
• Sequin motifs
• Applique - stitching one fabric onto another(base cloth)
Textiles and Fashion Page 28
Lecture 23 - Chemical Finishes
18 August 2015
09:52 AM
Dry finishes are usually mechanical , whereas wet finishes are usually chemical:
• To improve
○ Fabric performance - shrinkage control , mercerization
○ Comfort - Absorbency, anti-static control
○ Care - Stain and soil repellent finish, flame retardant
○ Appearance and handle - Brushing and shearing
○ Insulation - Brushing/Napping , milling/felting
○ Lustre - Glazing / moireing
○ Texture - embossing , flocking, embroidery, and embellishment
All finished add to the cost of the end product and the time it takes to produce a fabric
Chemical (wet) finishes
• Any FINISH applied to a loomstate textile using chemicals , solutions or water-based systems to
improve quality , handle and appearance of the cloth
• Finishes are applied for fabric function or aesthetics', or both
• These include anti-crease, bleaching, dyeing, printing & waterproofing, among others
FUNCTION :
• Anti-crease - Treating natural fabrics with crosslinking resin or an anti-wrinkle finish
• Bio-polishing - an enzymatic process that removes surface fibres and thus eliminates piling in
cellulosic fabrics such as cotton (Permanent)
• Bleaching - done to eliminate unwanted colouring from fibres, yarns or cloth
...
A variety of techniques are used
...
Rubber, vinyl, acrylic, silicone (Methods - Yarn coating , Spread coating ,
Textiles and Fashion Page 29
used
...
Fibre blends are
also used so that one reactive fibre shrinks while the other remains static; giving a puckered
surface
○ Burn-out/Devore - Blended fabrics of cellulose (cotton, rayon, viscose) and protein/synthetic
fibres only
...
Sodium hydrogen sulphate gel is printed onto the fabric
...
• Colour:
○ Dyeing
○ Printing
○ Bleaching
Textiles and Fashion Page 30
Lecture 24 - Chemical Finishing - Colour
25 August 2015
10:02 AM
Colour of fabric can inspire , motive and attract a designer or consumer to buy a particular article of clothing
DYEING TERMINOLOGY :
• Dye - Highly coloured organic substance which can be absorbed and retained by a fibre
...
• Mordant - Chemical compound , usually a metallic salt which form a complex link or bond with a dye and be
retained more firmly by the textile itself
• Colorant - A colouring matter which maybe a dye or a pigment
...
• Dyebath - the vessel in which dyeing takes place
...
• Substrate - The fabric onto which dyes and chemicals are applied
...
• Fastness : measurable quality of colorant , that indicates how well it resists fading
...
•
•
•
•
Factors that determine colour-fastness :
Apparel - Additional C/F requirements - salt & chlorine water;
Swimwear - Additional C/F to sunlight and atmosphere degradation;
Infants sleepwear - C/F to urine
Upholstery - C/F to crocking/ abrasion and light
...
56-63
• Fibres and their dye types
...
Plant , animal base
Synthetic dyes
• Acids
• Direct
• Disperse
• Reactive
• Pigments
• Domestic
Dye Classes
• Cellulose - direct , reactive, vat , natural
• Wool - Acid, Reactive (Some)
• Acrylic - Basic
...
90-99
• Pigment
• Discharge (Shwe Shwe)
• Wax print & block prints (Vlisco)
• Roller printing
• Screen printing
• Rotary printing
• Digital
Printing Terminology
Textiles and Fashion Page 31
Printing Terminology
• Figure/ Motif - The prominent part of the pattern (the design)
...
• Repeat - the distance covered by a single unit of pattern this duplicated over and over along the length of the
fabric
...
For apparel a minimum of four colourways
are usually designed
...
• Small inaccuracies - which machine-prints do not have
...
• Darker and lighter areas are common
...
The waxed areas will not
take the dye, leaving uncoloured patterns against a coloured ground
...
A fine woven mesh is stretched across a wooden frame and an impermeable
stencil applied to it
...
A series of such screens may be used for multiple colour layers on one surface
...
• The colour paste is made up of pigment and binder rather than a dyestuff
• With a slightly thicker consistency than dyestuff, pigments tend to sit on the fabric surface rather than nbeing
absorbed
...
PIGMENT PRINT (Polka Dot )
Finish : Pigment Printing
Properties : Pigment prints are opaque colours which can slightly alter the fabric surface due to the way
they "sit" on the fabric surface without being absorbed
...
BATIK (Jungle)
Construction:
Composition : 100% Rayon
Weight :
Yarn:
Finish: starch resist dye
Properties :
Resist paste ( usually starch paste) is painted or printed onto fabric, cured , and the fabric is over dyed or
tie-dyed
...
Textiles and Fashion Page 32
Title: Textiles and Fashion
Description: Intended for 1st years taking a textiles course or studying textiles in the fashion industry. Notes include construction, composition of fabrics and fibres. Different finishes of the fabrics.
Description: Intended for 1st years taking a textiles course or studying textiles in the fashion industry. Notes include construction, composition of fabrics and fibres. Different finishes of the fabrics.